These machine embroidered smocked inserts. We used a smocking machine embroidery design that was purchased from one of the embroidery designers and simply sewed it out on a smocked insert. You will need to pleat the fabric with white thread because you will leave the pleating threads in. We pulled the insert up tighter than you would for regular hand smocking. These can be inserted into a t shirt, bubble, romper - just use your imagination!